The Art And Design Lovers Guide To The Autumn/Winter 2022 Womenswear Shows

Art lovers, rejoice! For autumn/winter 2022, designers dove into an exhibition’s-worth of art and design inspirations, creating according to a curatorial eye that honed in on myriad movements and genres, and featured collaborations with an impressive line-up of living artists. Take Anthea Hamilton’s bulging pumpkins at Loewe, runways awash with Anish Kapoor colours, new takes on trompe l’oeil, and the sartorial sashays of Frank Stella’s 80s collages at Stella McCartney. 

As our guide-meets-exhibition-catalogue illustrates, state of the art style is trending.

Read more: Spring/Summer 2022 Fashion Trends

Anish Kapoor colours

Tom Ford AW22

Givenchy AW22

Versace AW22

Junya Watanabe AW22

Mumbai-born, London-based Kapoor finds most artistic serendipity in his gooey painted splatters and sculptures, when they are imagined in apocalyptic, primordial and chaotic red and black. In 2016, the artist even purchased the rights to Vantablack, the darkest man-made substance on earth, and he will showcase his “Kapoor Black” sculptures at this year’s Venice Biennale. Designers also professed a penchant for these sensual, after-dark and devilish tones. Scarlet, candy red and crimson saturated the Sacai, Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta and Versace catwalks, and a spectrum of oil slick colours were seen at Givenchy, Junya Watanabe and Alexander McQueen. Layer them up to rival Kapoor’s trademarked tones.

Anish Kapoor’s “Leviathan” for Monumenta 2011 in Paris, France.

Julien Hekimian

Stella meets Stella

Stella McCartney AW22

Filippo Fior

Stella McCartney AW22

Filippo Fior

Stella McCartney is well-versed in the world of artistic collaborations. During lockdown in 2020, she launched an A-Z Manifesto, featuring typographic artworks dreamt up by blue-chip icons including Olafur Eliasson, Jeff Koons, Sam Taylor-Johnson, Chantal Joffe and Alex Israel. 

For autumn/winter 2022, she showcased a collection created in collaboration with famed American painter and sculptor Frank Stella, recreating his abstract, linear and intensely colourful ’80s collages across slouchy suiting, sharp coats and sculptural dresses. “For me, it’s such an exciting time to talk about his work. It lends itself so well to pattern and texture and material, which is where I was going. This collection was a lot about bringing new fabrics and textures to our brand,” McCartney told Vogue’s Anders Christian Madsen backstage at the show.

Anita Shire

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